Saying farewell to my
nearest and dearest as the placement spun around the corner proved to be a lot
more tear-inducing than I had originally thought. There was the mission of
packing and re-packing my rucksack, the difficulty of choosing what I needed to
bring with me to survive, and the devastation of not being able to come coupled
with my pet pooch. However, I arrived on time to Terminal 2 London Heathrow
airport and combined forces with the other UK ICS volunteers, some of whom were
meeting one another for the first time. Being as nervous as I was, I managed to
make my way through to departures without my team and missed the group photo! Luckily,
I successfully and safely completed the two part journey with my new squad and
we received a very warm welcome from Lena in Lilongwe. Our ten week adventure was
off to a flying start.
The International
Citizen Office in Lilongwe felt somewhat like summer camp with everyone in bunk
beds and some top and tail action. The days to follow consisted of getting to
know our other halves (counterparts), being introduced to our fellow in-country
volunteers and Mercy’s guesthouse where we ate our meals. Not forgetting the
introduction of bucket showers and additional training, including; Code of
Conduct, Safety and Security, Budgeting, and theorising potential project plans
and ideas.
We
later split into the two teams and were on route to either Siya-Siya or Dedza.
Little did I know what I had let myself in for; instantly everything seemed
more beautiful, the clouds looked puffier and a lot more relaxed here in Malawi
as the concept of time evaporated. By the time we had arrived at our new homes
and met our new families, it was dark. So,
I sat in my new box room, alone, warm and verging on insanely anxious. A first
impression, the Malawian culture is portrayed as a blessing and a curse in the
outback. The amount of children seen under the age of 10 in the passing
villages and that of Siya-Siya is remarkable. Yet, culture has taught them in
other ways to unite and live off one another. What followed was spotting the
most incredible star-shower I have ever seen with some new friends.
Soaking up the
undercurrents of the city, on my first day in the village I encountered the
hole in the ground that was to be my toilet for the next nine weeks either I
had to go, or I had to go, go. Venturing
out into the market and embracing this foreign land, it was time to mingle and
meet the locals. We were able to get a
true sense of the culture and somewhat of an idea of what it would be like to
be famous with people constantly shouting “Mzungu!” (white person). We roamed
the local market to sample of the fine street food – chips and egg, more accurately
described as a chip omelette, nothing like we would expect in the UK. Trying
out the culinary customs – eating with your hands, which was more a onetime
thing as I could only hear my mother in the back of my mind telling me off as a
young child. As I underwent a crash course in the native language, Chichewa,
this proved very funny for my teachers, unfortunately at my expense. A man
offered for me to become his wife in exchange for his bike. Where I’m from this
would be considered an insult, but here a bike is one of his most treasured
possessions, which took a moment for me to register. Despite dressing modestly
and trying local cuisine and language, I will never blend in here; yet I intend
to use this to my advantage, to help achieve the overall aim of the placement –
enrolling, retaining and educating young people in schools.
Music
unites us: In-country volunteer Mbilika Mwentembela and UK volunteer Alun Cook.
Siya-Siya
is located in the heart of Malawi. No travel guide book could have had me
prepared for this and I longed for a sense of a familiarity but my phone was
completely out of use. We wondered around the small village of Siya-Siya to quite
literally stumble upon the river “Lipimbi” to see some of the locals bathing
and doing their washing. Watching the sun and moon cross paths on a beautifully
simplistic landscape, this all made me wonder - do I take advantage of such
things when I am back at home in Ireland? Is my mind pre-occupied and
distracted by pointless things so much that I am unable to notice the beauty
around my own home?
Bubbles of
joy! In-country volunteer Victoria Chilemba introducing bubbles to the children
at the Transitional Centre.
On Monday we were
surprised by the team leaders and told that today we would be teaching a class
in the transitional centre that our office is located next to. It came as a
shock to realise that for our first class we would not have a wifi connection
or adequate time to prepare a detailed, well thought out lesson. Thankfully,
Madame Maureen had the class syllabus. I got Mathematics which I thought should
be easy to teach in any language. Paired with Fyuapi, Hope and Mbilika, the Beyonce’s
of Chichewa (!), we were assigned to teach the kids the importance of using tallies
and graphs. I was nervous but then realised the children simply enjoyed our
presence. They were responsive to the mzungus, fortunately for our in-country
team members. The class had initially only nine students attending at the start
of lesson one but by the third lesson there were thirty-two children attending.
Slowly as the class went on I began feeling more comfortable and more focused
on setting goals to achieve by the end of the lesson. Success! They were able
to complete the exercises we had planned.
Instead
of viewing this experience as a huge personal challenge, I must take the view
that I am in a unique position to be volunteering and living alongside this
community. This is how people in certain parts of the world live for their
entire lives, not just for a measly 10 weeks like I will be doing. This
highlights again what is really important, the reasons as to why am I here – to
help reduce child labour and marriages, improve access to education, to educate
and learn in turn. I have witnessed the multiple long, hot walks women and
children make in order to obtain water for the household, and it has now become
clear to me that I use far too much water at home. Children huddle around you
as you drink bottled water in anticipation not for a drink, but for the empty
plastic bottle; I have never seen anything like it – it is as if a plastic
bottle is fairy dust. Bottles are collected by shops in exchange for money to
be washed and re-used by shops to sell local water or cooking oil.
Productivity
is key: Mid-meeting with the principle at Matenje primary school with the aim
of empowering and educating the most marginalised children.
On Tuesday we hitch-hiked
a lift to our first school Matenje primary school for introductions after
paying a small fee to the local biker squad. The ride was surprisingly
comfortable and we were taken on a very beautiful, scenic route. I had wisely
selected my soundtrack; On top of the world – Imagine dragons, Waves – Kanye
West, Good riddance – Green Day, to name a few and match my mood – bliss. Once
we had arrived children swarmed towards us and greeted with “Bo”, accompanied
by a fist-bump. A meeting was conducted with the deputy head master. He wanted our
assistance in getting children to attend school and we discussed the challenges
they faced. The severe lack of resources is exemplified by a few facts. One textbook
is shared between five students and some classes are conducted under trees due
to the need for infrastructure. After lunch we walked to Kanjuwi primary school
which was made up of eight classrooms, consisting of 19 teachers, 1,045 male
and 936 female students. Overcrowding is a severe problem, standard four holds more
than 130 students. Moreover, the teacher has access to only two of the nine
textbooks required to teach the syllabus! I am faced with teaching children that
it is their right to be educated and that within a classroom setting they will
learn some of life’s most valuable life skills. Yet there is barely any room in
the classroom for the sheer number of children it accommodates. As a team we
must overcome these challenges and plan interactive lessons in order to ensure
that the most marginalised children coming
to school without a book or a pencil, are learning too.
Thumbs up:
‘Siya today Siya tomorrow’ enjoying a ride back from visiting
Matenje primary school with the with the local taxi service.
That night I experienced
my first blackout and discovered that very few establishments within the
village have installed solar panels. I was feeling extremely uneasy, warm
without a working fan and left questioning all my life choices. Within the hour
my mood had switched and as did the power, much to my relief. I was sitting in
my host home with Andrew (my “brother”) fussing over my well-being, as well as
the direction and distance between me and the living room fan.
After university, I was unsure
of what to do, and I hoped that volunteering would allow me to redirect other
people’s futures whilst also giving me a clearer picture of my own. Here the
possibilities for potential careers are limited for those in rural villages
such as Siya-Siya. Jobs are scarce, the economy is failing and the government neglects
basic needs. However, this hasn’t compromised sense of personal security, which
might be because I carry pepper spray! Everyone is so friendly, in comparison
to the uninviting passers-by that I am used to back in Edinburgh.
Having completed week one
of the placement, I am feeling more uncertain than ever. The problem that we
are trying to tackle is prolific, and comes hand in hand with many others such
as; lack of school resources, teachers’ wages and corruption. There are three
things I am sure of - we all have to start somewhere, preparation is key and I
love a challenge.
The best is yet to come.
- Amy B O'Hagan